LIFE AS I SEE IT IN EGYPT AND ELSEWHERE..

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Archive for September, 2010

Egyptian Journey Coming to an End

Posted by tmallare on September 26, 2010

Ron and I will be returning from Egypt to the United States in October of this year.  Talk about good news/bad news!  We have had an absolutely wonderful experience here with the people we have met, both Egyptians and other ex-patriots. And we have much enjoyed showing our visitors the sights and sounds of the “real” Egypt.  Although we look forward to being closer to our families and the familiarity of our American way of life, we can’t say that our exit is without sadness.

We have forged great friendships here that will never be forgotten.  Ron has experienced a vibrant and challenging work environment, which has helped him to grow as a manager and as a person.  The diversity of people I have met here is unparalleled in my US experience.  We both feel we are better people as a result of this episode in our lives.  Our adventures to Europe and the Middle East would likely not have been possible except for our close geographic proximity.  And, perhaps oddly enough, our faith has been strengthened.  I’m not sure what more we could ask for….

Thank you to everyone who has supported us.  I realize I have already posted about this but, please, do not let opportunities pass you by!  Many ventures pass our way only once in a lifetime.  The reasons for Ron and me to NOT take on this challenge were numerous from the outset.  The benefits we received have turned out to be immeasurable.   As they say here…. As-salaamu ‘AlaykumPeace be with you.

Posted in Egyptian Culture | Leave a Comment »

An Experience in Alexandria

Posted by tmallare on September 20, 2010

This is a continuation of the post regarding Brian and Kathy’s visit.  However, this event deserves a posting all by itself.

When we have guests on the North Coast, a driver takes us to our destinations in Alexandria.  Two drivers have done this for us over the past two years and, coincidentally, both are named Ibrahim.  One is married with children, the other a young, single guy.  Hence, the distinction:  “Old Ibrahim” and “Young Ibrahim” – no disrespect intended toward either man.  On this day, “Old Ibrahim” was our driver.  He has been extremely good to Ron and me, even inviting us to his home for dinner.  So, on this day, Brian, Kathy, Allison and I set out to see some of the sights of Alexandria.

After visiting the Alexandria Egyptian Museum we determined that lunch should be next on the itinerary.  As an aside, Ibrahim does not speak a lot of English. However, I must note that he speaks a LOT more English than I do Arabic.  Therefore, I have a great deal of respect for his efforts.  He asked us if we wanted American or Egyptian food. Well, we ARE in Egypt…. so of course we said Egyptian.  Then, “fish or beef?”  For whatever reason, we agreed on fish as our answer.  You could see at once that this decision pleased him.  He knew the precise place to take us!

A short drive later we ended up in what appeared to be an alleyway.  There was a restaurant sign in front of us as Ibrahim pulled to a stop so, we proceeded to get out of the car.  As the first door opened, we were literally smacked in the face by the smell of fish.  Unfortunately, it didn’t seem like fresh fish!  I hardly knew what to do…. should we continue on or possibly change our minds to the “beef” offering?  With a lot of false bravado, we all exited the car and Ibrahim backed up the alleyway to find a place to park.  Kathy was so traumatized by the smell that she forgot to shut her car door.  We chased the door down and got it shut before it whacked an unyielding obstacle or, worse yet, a pedestrian. Then we continued forward toward the restaurant sign.

The restaurateurs  herded us across the street toward another door.  Oops!, we must have been heading toward the wrong restaurant.  Actually, no.  Inside this door was a whole bunch of seafood on ice.  Sea bass, denise, calamari, shrimp, clams… LOTS of seafood.     We were to pick out what we wanted from this selection.  Then, across the street, in an outdoor kitchen, our selection would be cooked – steamed, boiled, grilled or fried – our choice.  Then, next to this outdoor kitchen, was the dining area that we had originally set out for.  Well, Kathy and I looked at this extensive selection on ice and immediately headed outside.  I had no idea that she was not a seafood fan.  Alas, I am a tad squeamish in that area as well.  How we came to a consensus regarding this eating venue remains a mystery.  However, Brian and Allison were having a grand time perusing the selections and picking out our lunch.  Interestingly, after they chose the kind and amount of sea sustenance we desired, the choices were weighed……  ALL TOGETHER!!  No difference between sea bass, clams or shrimp.  Wow, we must be in a foreign country!

Thankfully, once we were seated inside the dining area, we could no longer smell the decades of fish that had preceded us in this location.  Soon the food began to arrive…. beets, pickled vegetables, tahina, babaganoush, baladi bread and rice.  Then, the main dishes started arriving.  Brian and Allison had ordered steamed mussels, clams and shrimp and grilled denise and sea bass.  When the shrimp arrived in all their glory, heads and all, Kathy’s complexion started turning a funny shade… then the fish arrived with the heads still on and the eyes staring right at us.  That’s when her complexion faded to a true gray!  NOT good.  In the meantime, a huge plate of fried calamari arrived.  This had not been ordered, but, what the heck.  We began to eat it and, to our delight, it was absolutely fantastic.  After about half of it was gone, the waiter arrived with the mussels and clams and realized we had not ordered the calamari.  He took it back!  I guarantee you…. some other table was served our leftovers.  But, it was probably the best calamari any of us had ever had.  So, we are thankful for the mistake.

Poor Kathy sat through the meal and hesitantly accepted pieces of fish that Brian removed from the intact grilled fish, as well as a few shrimp that he removed the heads from.  That is why this picture of Kathy and the fish on ice is so amusing.  Pictures can be deceiving!!  :)   Thank goodness for her that she liked the rice, bread and hummus selections.  We are all much richer for this experience.  Thank you, Ibrahim!

Posted in Alexandria, Egyptian Culture | Leave a Comment »

Out and About with Brian and Kathy

Posted by tmallare on September 19, 2010

Ron’s brother, Brian, and his wife, Kathy, came from Maryland to visit us for ten days.  Here are some of the highlights of that trip.

Of course one of our first stops was at the pyramids in Giza and to ride the camels.  Here are Brian and Kathy in front of the pyramid  that was once fully covered in alabaster.  In the 1800′s, Mohammad Ali Pasha decided to take the alabaster from the pyramid and use it to build the large mosque (which bears his name) inside the Citadel.  So, this white cap on top is all that is left of the original cladding.

Here is a close up of the Sphinx, which is located near the pyramids.  You can see that the nose is missing.  There is a tall tale that relates Alexander the Great and his troops using the nose for target practice.  Alas, this has been proven false.  The nose has simply eroded over the centuries.  You can see a square under the ear where the false beard was once attached to the face.  The beard is in pieces, the largest of which is at The British Museum.

We took a boat ride on the Nile from south of Cairo toward uptown.  Here is a picture of a “taxi” that went back and forth from the shore to an island.  A wire cable stretched across the expanse.  The taxi operator then pulled the boat across by hand.  The last two pictures show some of the trash that is unfortunately a part of the Nile habitat.  The garbage was one thing… but seeing the children bathing in that water and playing in the trash was disheartening.

Here is Brian on our trip up to Marassi.  Unfortunately for all of us, the air conditioner in the Jeep decided the night before our trip across the desert would be a great time for it to quit working.  So, for three and half hours we drove through the blowing sand with the windows down.  This was Brian’s alternative to getting “sand blasted.”

On our way to Marassi we stopped by the Porto Marino Golf club to visit our friend, Ahmed.  He is the golf pro and manager at this course.  He took us on a tour and treated us like honored guests.

We stayed with our friends Dean and Allison at their home in Gazhala, just west of Marassi.  Every living area of the home has a view of the sea.  This sunrise view is what they wake up to every morning.  Amazing!

This is one of the funnier stories…  Well, funny for us, maybe not for Brian.  We went to a Moroccan themed restaurant for some good food, great ambiance, and to smoke some after-dinner sheesha.  All was going as planned.  The sheesha arrived and Ron and Brian were enjoying the grape flavored tobacco.  The “hot coal guy” comes around every so often to place orange-glowing embers on top of the sheesha pipe to keep the tobacco burning.  After one of the coal refills, suddenly Brian started making a noise.  Honestly, I can’t remember exactly what it sounded like.  Then, he starts pulling off his shoe!  One of the glowing embers had missed the sheesha bowl and landed on top of his mesh covered Nike shoes!!  It burned all the way through the shoe and half-way through his sock.  I continue to laugh as I write this… maybe you had to be there but, we couldn’t stop laughing.  Only in Egypt!

Our Egyptian friends took us to the Semiramis for a fantastic evening of entertainment.  First were the singers and musicians.  Everything was in Arabic but it was interesting and  nice to listen to.  Then, out came the belly dancer.  When we first thought about going to this event, it sounded like a really good idea.  Once it was arranged, we were told to meet our friends at MIDNIGHT in the lobby of the hotel.  Trust me, I am almost always in bed by 11:00pm!  However, this seemed like a once in a lifetime opportunity so, off we went.  The belly dancer did not come to the stage until 2:00AM!!  We made it home around 4:00am.  This is not unusual for many of the Egyptians we know….  I don’t know how they do it.  It took us all a full day to recover!  Poor Ron had to go to work the next day.  The rest of us definitely slept in.

Posted in Egyptian Culture | Leave a Comment »

Buying Groceries in Cairo

Posted by tmallare on September 5, 2010

Today the bagger sacked my groceries at the local Metro market. He grabbed the bags and headed out the door.

“I will take them,” I said.

“Taxi?” he asked.

“ No, I’ll just take the bags.”

He looks at me with a blank stare. “Delivery?”

“No, I’m going to walk.” And I proceeded to walk a few steps, swinging my arms in forceful determination. At this juncture he indicated he would accompany me to my destination. Yet he did not even know where I lived or how far away it was from the store!! And what about his job bagging groceries?

“No, no, NO. Just give me the bags. Please.” He unwillingly handed over the grocery sacks. What will I do when I’m back in the States full time and I am expected to bag and carry my own groceries? Likely, these little “tugs of war” will be missed.

Posted in Egyptian Culture | Leave a Comment »

Shangri-La in Muscat, Oman

Posted by tmallare on September 5, 2010

If you’ve read “The Lost Horizon”, then you are familiar with the mythical Shangri-La.  It is a fictional destination somewhere in the Tibetan mountains and is portrayed as a paradise on Earth, isolated from the rest of the world…. a utopia, of sorts.  I am not a particularly fanciful person.  So, although this book was somewhat entertaining, it certainly wasn’t one of my favorites.

On the other hand, the Shangri-La Resort Ron and I visited a couple of days ago in Oman, definitely IS one of my favorite locations from now forward.  It is situated with mountains on one side and the Arabian Sea on the other.  It is SO quiet.  The environment is simply serene – I can’t think of a more appropriate word.  There is now a road leading to the area, but supplies for the building were actually brought in by sea during construction.  We only spent only two days there… thank goodness!!  Any longer and we would have been spoiled beyond redemption.

Posted in Architectural Details, Oman, Random Stuff | Leave a Comment »

 
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